Chefs Aakruti and Viraf scoured the lengths and breadths of Himalayan range from Uttarakhand to Nepal to create a frequently changing menu at their latest offering, Across, near Kala Ghoda. “It was during my days home during Covid that I realized that my own food is something that we have never curated in these more than two decades of being in the chef’s profession,” shared Aakruti who hails from Nepal. Viraf, a hardcore Mumbai guy agreed and together they set on a journey to recreate Aakruti’s childhood and present her sasural, Mumbai, with authentic food from the foothills of Himalaya. The end result – a delicious treat to the Mumbaikars.
But why do you keep changing the menu? “To keep it fresh,” Aakruti explained. “Most of our key ingredients and spices come from Nepal and other places in Himalayas. We try to get the freshest, seasonal stuff and give a variety to our guests. Eg. Timur, the main spice, it comes in many varieties, so we can use all varieties available, whenever they are and create myriad dishes and menus.”
Churpi Cheese Dip & Crisps_AcrossTaro Chips
Himalayan spices, Himalayan gin, Himalayan hog plum and the timur! They rule the menu.
The menu is simple, tasty and unique. And that applies to the bar menu as well. I start with the Mezcal Negroni – delightfully smokey with mezcal used instead of gin. It was served with their homemade Churpi Cheese. Churpi cheese is made with their secret spices and served with their traditional insecurity bread’s crisps. The bread is so called because traditionally, the women of the house used to be insecure about the bread rising well and becoming fluffy enough; and the name stayed.
Big Foot
The bread and the dips are very tasty; especially the white bean humus made from local Himalayan beans. The Fry Bread is something that you shouldn’t miss. It’s an amazing combination of bake n fry in reverse. Served with Kalimpong cheese and homemade honey chilli sauce. The sauce enhances the sharpness of the cheese that compliments the mix texture of bread.
Most of the dips have Timur as the umami agent. The roast pumpkin dip served with the taro chips is subtle in taste. But what really sends you palate into a dance mode is the taro leaves dip with a dash of hot ghee in it. Dip the chip in it, take a generous dollop and savour them.
Estate Manager, a delightful mix of bourbon and smoky lapsang tea, is a cocktail served with Kanchan cheese. Take one bite of cheese and then sip the drink, it changes the flavour of the cocktail making it sweeter on your palate.
PauliteAloo Fing Duck
Duck Choila is the next on the table. Smoked duck infused with their spices is served on the bed of red poha along with a radish pickle that has a mustard zing. Bhattiwala Chicken – slow roasted chicken cubes marinated with roasted cumin and signature Nepali spices served on a bed of churmure (puffed rice) with some fried onions. A textural delight that entices the palate with mild and delicious marinate. If you like pork, then don’t miss the Pork Belly. Fried and cooked to perfection with just salt as marinate, the belly is generously sprinkled with Timur powder and a bit of chaat masala. Have it with Bombay Porter beer to complete the experience.
Another small plate delicacy is the Mutton Pakku Cutlet. Pakku means shredded after cooking. Slow cooked mutton (with ginger, garlic, cumin, himalayan salt) is shredded finely and pressed into cutlets and pan fried. It is served with a delicious yogurt and cumin dip.
Timur Crispy Jackfruit Himalayan Trout
Fish lovers go for the Himalayan Trout. Whole trout served on bed of spinach with spring onion slivers. Tomato, onion, turmeric, and pink salt are sauted together and blended to fine paste to create a delectable chutney to accompany the fish. Tasty notes of different flavours.
Jackfruit Timur – jackfruit marinated in timur and fried, served with Perila seed chutney, homemade paneer and cucumber salad is a good choice for vegetarians. Chicken Timur can be a choice for chicken lovers. Also try the Mustang dal made from special beans from Mustang region. Served with timur and chilli chutney, ghee rice, and fried onion garnish, this can be a satiating one-dish meal.
Another one-dish meal is the Mushroom Thukpa. Traditional veg soup from the hills with noodles with quite a huge portion of mushrooms added to it has subtle flavours and fills you to the brim.
Mustang Black Dal Mushroom Thukpa
Datshi is a typical Bhutanese stew made using the local hot chilli and local cheese. It is served with red rice and pickle. They have two choices – Ema (veg) and Buff (buffalo meat). I tried the veg one and was highly impressed with the balance of chilli and cheese.
Their portions in general are quite good, and the dessert especially is big enough to suffice two! The Hog Plum Granita is hung curd dressed with hog plum reduction. Sweet and sour flavours explore all corners of your palate.
The German Walnut cake too is a good dessert option.
(Average cost for two: ₹ 3500/- with alcohol)
Where: Across – Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai
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